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KMID : 0604520050310010051
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2005 Volume.31 No. 1 p.51 ~ p.58
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A Low Irritant Liquid Cleanser Composition Developed by Multi-Screening Methods
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Kim Bae-Hwan
Hyun Ki-An
Yoon Sam-Sook
Kang Han-Cheol
Park Sun-Hee
Ko Kang-Il
Kim Ki-Ho
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Abstract
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Alkyl ethoxy sulfate type surfactants, widely used in commercial cleansers, are easily adsorbed to skin to often cause skin irritation and inflammation if not thoroughly rinsed nut. In order to replace or complement existing surfactants, we screened the existing surfactants through protein denaturation method, cell cytotoxicity assay and human IL-1alpha assay, etc. Fourteen surfactants have been chosen from among too irritant anionic, cationic and/or zwitter-ionic ones and investigated for cell cytotoxicity in human fibroblast cell lines using monolayer culture with the thirteen commercially available cleansers for sensitive skin. From these results, we selected 5 surfactants and 2 commercial cleansers (names not shown), such as sodium laureth sulfate (anionic), sodium cocoyl isethionate (anionic), sodium lauroamphoacetate (zwitter-ionic), and cocamidopropyl betaine (zwitter-ionic), alkyl polyglycoside (non-ionic). 20 formulations were made out of 5 surfactants and five of them were chosen through a protein denaturation method (lower than 3 M sodium dodecyl sulfate solution 13.2%)), cell cytotoxicity and human patch test. These five selected formulations containing preservatives were compared to two selected commercial cleansers by cell cytotoxicity and human IL-1alpha ELISA assay using dermal equivalent. Finally, we selected the best formulation. To this formulation, fructan (3% or 5%) or/and portulaca extract (3% or 5%) well known for its anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects were added and investigated for cell cytotoxicity using dermal equivalent. In cytotoxicity assay using dermal equivalent, two formulations containing 5% fructan and 3% or 5% portulaca extract were less toxic than the others. In cytotoxicity assay and human IL-1alpha ELISA using 3D culture, the selected formulation containing 5% fructan and 5% portulaca extract showed better efficiency than those of the others and 2 commercial cleansers. As a result, we could develop a low irritant and safe liquid cleanser.
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KEYWORD
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sensitive skin, low irritant, surfactant, portulaca extract, fructan
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